{"id":161,"date":"2014-04-07T04:02:40","date_gmt":"2014-04-07T04:02:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/?p=161"},"modified":"2014-04-07T04:04:30","modified_gmt":"2014-04-07T04:04:30","slug":"a-few-days-in-karachi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/?p=161","title":{"rendered":"A Few Days in Karachi"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>After a 16 hour flight from San Diego to Dubai, a six hour layover in Dubai, and a close to two hours flight, we landed at the Jinnah International Airport at Karachi.\u00a0 A little after 4 am, the airport was very much alive, with four flights having landed within a couple of hours of each other.\u00a0 The immigration lines were very long, but if you are lucky enough to know someone who knows the right people, you can be escorted through the queues, as if breaking straight through the walls of a human maze.\u00a0 It can be a little awkward and embarrassing, but such are the privileges available in some parts of the world.<\/p>\n<p>The air outside was cool and fresh, with almost no traffic on the roads.\u00a0 Drivers in Pakistan, like in most developing countries, rarely acknowledge the lane dividers, be it on a highway or a smaller street.\u00a0 But in those early morning hours, the driver was truly the king of the road, weaving around the sporadic obstacles that materialized in the form of slow moving cars, or even slower moving two-wheeled buggies pulled by donkeys.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_166\" style=\"width: 310px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0227.jpg\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-166\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-166\" alt=\"Young girls in the wedding hall dressed up to celebrate their cousin's wedding\" src=\"http:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0227-300x225.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0227-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0227-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0227.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-166\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Young girls in the wedding hall dressed up to celebrate their cousin&#8217;s wedding<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Despite consistent rumors over the years (or is it the conventional wisdom of Karachi\u2019ites?) about Karachi\u2019s breakup into smaller pieces, Karachi is still a vibrant, thriving city of somewhere between 18 to 20 million, with all the headaches that go along any metropolis that continue to grow in a more unplanned than planned way.\u00a0 Bad traffic, frequent electrical outages, and an infrastructure that seems to have been thought out, but whose execution and maintenance is at the mercy of the current political party is in control.\u00a0 One could live with all this \u2013 after all over 20 million people do, but the lack of safety \u2013 frequent minor highway robberies of cell phones, cash and jewelry is what makes someone who is more familiar with the predictability of a western society think twice about visiting Karachi.\u00a0 But sometimes there are commitments to be kept that trump security concerns, such as the wedding of a niece.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_164\" style=\"width: 310px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0435.jpg\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-164\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-164\" alt=\"Kids enjoying bumper carts inside the mall's gaming area in Karachi\" src=\"http:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0435-300x225.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0435-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0435-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0435.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-164\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kids enjoying bumper carts inside the mall&#8217;s gaming area in Karachi<\/p><\/div>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">When you go to Karachi, you go for the food, and for the shopping.\u00a0 In addition to the already tantalizing and taste bud enhancing Pakistani cuisine, the localized versions of American (McDonalds, KFC, steaks), Mexican and Chinese fares are all worth tasting.\u00a0 Everything is a little bit spicier, a little bit tastier and for Western tourists, dirt cheap, even in fancy restaurants.\u00a0 Places like BBQ Tonite, Habib\u2019s, Red Apple, and Kolachi not only give you a celebrity experience, they can also deliver everything right at your doorstep. \u00a0What more could you ask for?\u00a0 Try the beef Nihari, the chicken Biryani, the mutton Karahi, and you will find yourself licking your fingers, maybe even the plate, after your meal.\u00a0 If you dare, order the brain Masala, and you will not be disappointed.\u00a0 Craving some sweet or savory snacks?\u00a0 Try some at the upscale Butler\u2019s Chocolate Cafe, or the famous and long-established Nimco\u2019s, Sohni Sweets or United Bakery.\u00a0 The Chicken patties, ground beef rolls and cheese sticks (not mozzarella) melt in your mouth, and you just cannot have one.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_167\" style=\"width: 310px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0106.jpg\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-167\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-167\" alt=\"From the second floor seating area, the Kalochi restaurant alive and sparkling at night along the ocean \" src=\"http:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0106-300x225.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0106-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0106-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0106.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-167\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">From the second floor seating area, the Kalochi restaurant alive and sparkling at night along the ocean<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Add enough of the right spices to anything, and it will be transformed into a mouth-watering dish.\u00a0 If that does not work, deep-fry it.\u00a0 It would take a truly awful cook to create bad tasting food using these two techniques.\u00a0 I am glad to say I have not found one yet.<\/p>\n<p>Karachi is a study in contrasts.\u00a0 Visit the posh Defense area at the edge of the Indian Ocean, and you feel secure, things are more organized (on a relative scale), restaurants\u2019 decor and service are more refined, houses can stand on their own against any mansion in La Jolla and Beverly hills, and European and exotic cars can be seen. \u00a0You can go to the Dolmen Mall \u2013 the new one in Defense \u2013 and think you are in a US or European mall.\u00a0 Children found the newer malls in Karachi to be more fun and exciting than the ones in the US because they got the best of both worlds \u2013 the rules are much more lax, so playing a game of tag was ok, the games and rides on the arcades were very inexpensive, and winning in the games was somehow much easier.\u00a0 Oh, and they were much less crowded.\u00a0 Other meeting spots of the city\u2019s elite include the expensive grounds and world-class restaurants of the Karachi Golf Club, the Creek Club or the best of the best \u2013 the Gymkhana.\u00a0 At any of these exclusive locales, you are taken away from Karachi, without ever leaving Karachi.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_165\" style=\"width: 235px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0429.jpg\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-165\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-165\" alt=\"Children enjoying a ride in The Place mall in Karachi before a movie \" src=\"http:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0429-225x300.jpg\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0429-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0429-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/SAM_0429.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-165\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Children enjoying a ride in The Place mall in Karachi before a movie<\/p><\/div>\n<p>On the other hand, if you go to the North Nazimabad, Gulshan or Saddar areas, you will find the other Karachi.\u00a0 I am not sure which one is real, but I would bet the latter truly represents Karachi and Pakistan.\u00a0 Streets are bustling with people.\u00a0 Residences, tuition centers, restaurants, repair shops are next to each other \u2013 zoning ordnances are defined, but loosely applied.\u00a0 Take a stroll in Zainab market, and you will find all kinds of clothes, shoes, antiques, and electronic products \u2013 anything you can think of, at similar or better quality, but priced much lower than in China\u2019s silk market.\u00a0 And why not, compared to an exchange rate of 7 yuans for one US dollar, the US dollar is worth 98 Pakistani rupees, which is rumored to have been artificially strengthened \u2013 it used to be 110 or more rupees a few weeks ago.<\/p>\n<p>While in the West V2V (Vehicle to Vehicle communication) still needs some time to develop, Karachi drivers have already implemented it using the technology they have.\u00a0 It is called the horn.\u00a0 Amazingly, it is used to convey anger, remorse, and who has the right of way.\u00a0 Speaking of right of way, the generally accepted rule is that the larger and\/or the newer car has the right of way.\u00a0 In spite of the chaotic driving patterns \u2013 you should always be prepared for the car in front of you to back up if they missed a turn or an exit, as well as a car driving against traffic.\u00a0 And you thought that only happened in Bourne or Bond movies. \u00a0In spite of all this, there are very few major accidents because you simply cannot drive more than 50 or 60 km\/hour during heavy traffic, which is most of the day.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_153\" style=\"width: 310px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/IMG_0940.jpg\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-153\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-153\" alt=\"Try and guess which direction the traffic is supposed to go in\" src=\"http:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/IMG_0940-300x225.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/IMG_0940-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/IMG_0940-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-153\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Try and guess which direction the traffic is supposed to go in<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Karachi, a city of extremes.\u00a0 Before planning a trip there, you think twice, and then twice again.\u00a0 But once you are there, you are immersed in a unique sensory experience, and if you give in to it, you will enjoy a different pace and type of life where time does not pass as you would expect it to, where you can spend hours talking to friends and family, leisurely enjoying fragrant tea, ground beef samosas, and cumin cookies.\u00a0 You should try it at least once.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>After a 16 hour flight from San Diego to Dubai, a six hour layover in Dubai, and a close to two hours flight, we landed at the Jinnah International Airport at Karachi.\u00a0 A little after 4 am, the airport was very much alive, with four flights having landed within a couple of hours of each [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/161"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=161"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/161\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":169,"href":"https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/161\/revisions\/169"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=161"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=161"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.zulfiqarblog.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=161"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}